Pet rat questions!!! Rat Owners Please Answer?
Question by : Pet rat questions!!! Rat Owners Please Answer?
Hai, I have 3 female rats. And here are some questions, I Just got them today. Please answer, and I have a HUGE Ferret cage that my ferret doesn’t use, I will pass them over to it if they grow but will the ladders be to big?
I heard that Care-Fresh is the best bedding for rats, That’s what i have, is this correct?
I got Premium rat food (The Blocks) as their “Main course” Is this healthy?
I also Mixed, 2 tiny cubes of apple (About the size of your Thumb nail), A bit of watermelon (Really small), and Multi Grain Crackers, is this okay? (The fruit is just a “Get used to” Thing so we know what they like…)
What should i mix with the Blocks?
One of them has been sniffling a bit, do you think with the new bedding she will get better?
They are feeder rats, as i think it’s better to save them from being food so they were not treated as well as the Pet rats do you think they will still be healthy?
They are kind of dirty, can I get a baby wipes and take it off? (I think it’s rat poopie)
I got them as ‘Medium’ sized rats, will they stay the same or grow?
One of them has Runny poop, can this be a virus or just a bad diet, and motion sickness from the car?
What should we feed her to stop the runny poo?
I plan to make them more social, do i start handling them immediately or let them be for a week or so in the cage?
When do i start Litter Box Training?
Can I put foam in the cage?
How much is it to have them Spayed?
What is a list of foods they can and Cannot eat?
If they are so dirty that they need a actual bath will I be able to give them one?
Thanks! If you can ad a little more advice that would be AWESOME 🙂
Okay Now i’m really worried about The sniffling rat, she’s making squeaky noises and she’s sleeping allot. This isn’t Natural for a female rat 🙁 What do i do?! We are not going to spend 200$ On a rat we bought a couple hours ago!
Answer by Gina
-The ladders in your ferret cage shouldn’t be too big for them when they are adults, but you could always buy new ones or hook hammocks in instead.
-I definitely prefer Carefresh.
-Most rats wont eat the blocks once they’ve had other food. I think its probably just really boring for an animal that would be eating all sorts of things in the wild. That said, its great from a nutritional point of view. I would just make sure you give lots of fresh food as well.
-That sounds fine. Just make sure you feed some greens as well. The darker in color the better. Because rats have fairly small stomachs, its important to feed things that are very high-nutrient.
-You could mix in some parrot food or dog food for added protein. This is usually good for growing rats.
-Respiratory infections are pretty common in rats, especially in pet stores. If she has a healthy immune system, it will go away on its own.
-Here’s the deal: feeder rats are not a different species, but they are treated very differently. They are bred without concern for genetics or inbreeding, which leads to less healthy animals. They are also taken away from their mother’s far sooner and nurse less, leading to smaller animals with weaker immune systems who are often emotionally stunted and fearful. They are also often raised in non-ideal conditions. Just watch out for them and take them to a vet if they look sick. Other than that, the damage is done.
-In my experience (had rats for many years, breeding for 18 months) a dirty rat is almost never a healthy rat. Rats are normally almost obsessive about hygiene, and if your rat is dirty there might be something wrong. You can wipe them with a wet cloth or brush with a soft-bristled toothbrush wet down. I would not suggest using shampoo, soap, or baby wipes, which can have various negative effects.
There is only one size of rat (excepting very rare dwarfism). They are likely just not full grown. That said, females do not get as large as males in general.
-It could be viral or from a change in diet. This is harder on some rats than others. Just watch it. If it doesn’t get better she should be separated from the others and taken to a vet if possible.
-I would give them a few days, then start handling them each daily for about 20 minutes at a time, multiple times per day if possible. This limits stress but still builds trust.
-You can start litter box training now. Some rats take to it and some don’t. Good luck!
-Spaying cost depends on the vet. Honestly, unless you want to get males in the future, I wouldn’t recommend it. Rats don’t have obvious heats or bleed, so unless you want a male it doesn’t matter. Spaying in rats is far riskier than in other animals. Its almost never worth it. If you really want males, neutering is actually far safer.
-I don’t know what kind of foam you’re talking about. Styrofoam? No. Bath Foam? No. If you wouldn’t want them to eat it, don’t put it in the cage. No plastic, no foil, nothing you don’t want ruined.
-They shouldn’t have anything high in sugar or highly processed. No Lucky Charms, Poptarts, etc. Stick with whole grains, fruits, veggies, etc. Avoid anything with lots of salt, coloring, or unnatural flavors.
-I’ve literally never needed to bathe a rat, but you can. Wipe them with a wet cloth first. That is almost always enough. If necessary, bath in a stopped sink or small bowl with only an inch or so of luke-warm water, then dry gently. Do not use soap.
-You are likely to see them bite, pin each other, and box (stand up and hit with paws). This is normal. As long as they aren’t actually hurting each other let them be. they are establishing their social order.
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